Ok first of all, if you have HID's you need to upgrade the wires that power your ballasts
because they require way more electricity to ignite the Xenon gas than they are used to.
To solve this problem we use your stock wiring to activate a switch that derives power from the
battery via a larger wire. So your headlights still work the same way but you are getting power through
a larger wire that will not get too hot and melt.
First I will show you a picture of the wiring harness I made when I first got my HID
retrofitted headlights. It worked great and lasted a long time(1 year before my cheap
relay went out....in other words buy a good one)
As you can see it was a mess. It worked and all but when my relay went out I decided to
a better wiring harness that would be better hidden and integrated into the current wiring
of the car. To make a headlight setup look stock and OEM you have to keep things clean and
stay away from the "bird's nest" look in your engine bay.
To start out, I took a 9006 low beam light bulb out of my car and I busted the glass bulb off,
then i cut off everything revealing a positive and negative terminal.
After i got a clear view of the positive and negative terminals I soldered some wire onto them and then
soldered the other ends of the wires to the 30amp Automotive Relay. After all the soldering was done I
sealed everything up good with liquid electrical tape. Below I am going to show pictures of the wire,
solder, and liquid electrical tape I used.
After doing this you can start soldering wires to power the ballasts from the relay. You will need to split this into 2 wires
with 15amp fuses inline. This will make it safer for your relay and help make it last longer. Also you can solder the wire
that goes from the battery to the relay with a 30amp inline fuse. After this you are basically done with the construction of
the harness. Do a final check on all your connections to make sure they are solid and then seal them up with the liquid electrical
tape. Here are the pics of what it looks like.
The rest of this is specific to my Accord that I installed this on. So if you don't have an Accord you will need to
make the obvious adjustments to these general guidelines.
Here is the wiring harness hiding in the wheel well behind the headlights.
Here are pictures of the back of the headlights with the only wires you see are the power wires from the ignitors to
the bulbs and the high beam wire.
Here are pictures of where I placed the ballasts underneath the headlights.
This is where I tapped into the positive power at the fuse box. I did it this way because I hate tapping power
directly from the battery because it looks cheap. By tapping into the fusebox you hide where you derive power from and
make your wiring harness look stock.
Here are some finished pics of the engine bay and in the second picture you can see the power wire going from the fusebox to the
passenger side headlight.
